The Frame Before the Door: Choosing Exterior Door Trim
Casings, crossheads, pediments and pilasters: how to choose trim that frames the entrance.
The front door is the one opening every visitor walks straight up to, and the trim around it does more to set the style of a facade than almost any other detail. A narrow beaded casing says Colonial cottage. A square head block over a flat face says Craftsman. A wide, flat border with crisp edges says modern. Get the exterior door trim right and the doorway looks designed; get it wrong and even a beautiful door can look like an afterthought.
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This guide covers exterior door trim options from simple casings to full surrounds: the parts of a door surround, the four main trim styles, how to size trim for the door and the wall, what changes on stucco, brick and stone, how the same choices apply to homes and commercial buildings, and exterior door trim ideas for an easy update.
Short answer: Exterior door trim is the moulding that frames an entry door: at its simplest a casing up both sides and across the head, with a crosshead, pediment or pilasters added when the architecture calls for more presence. For a standard single door, a 3 1/2 to 5 in casing is typical; double doors, tall doors and large facades usually need 6 to 8 in. Match the window trim, or go one size wider at the door. Mouldex door trim comes in 28 Colonial, Craftsman, Victorian and Modern profiles from 3 to 8 in wide, every one of them window trim too, with crossheads and pediments as custom orders.
The parts of a door surround
Exterior door trim can be as simple as a casing around the frame or as elaborate as a full classical surround. These are the pieces you'll hear about:
- Casing: the trim that runs up both sides of the door (the legs) and across the top (the head). On most homes, casing is the whole surround.
- Head casing: the horizontal piece over the door. It can match the legs or be wider and heavier to give the top of the opening more weight.
- Crosshead: a projecting horizontal cap above the head casing, usually built from a small cornice-like moulding. It throws a shadow line across the top of the door and gives a simple casing a more finished, traditional look.
- Pediment: a triangular, segmental (curved) or broken top that sits above the door, the signature of Georgian and Colonial Revival entrances.
- Pilasters: flattened columns set against the wall on either side of the door, each with its own capital and base. They turn a casing into a portico-style frame.
- Sill or threshold detail: the transition at the bottom, which on most entrances is part of the door unit itself rather than the trim.
You don't need every piece. A well-proportioned casing on its own is often the strongest choice, especially on a modern facade. Crossheads, pediments and pilasters are layers you add when the architecture calls for more presence.
The four main styles of exterior door trim
Our exterior door trim collection has 28 profiles in four styles, a range from 3 in to 8 in wide. Every one of them also works as window trim, so doors and windows can share one profile across the whole elevation. The same goes for the garage: our guide to garage door trim covers the biggest opening on the house.
Colonial
Colonial casings use rounded beads, coves and S-curves for a soft, traditional shadow line. They suit Georgian, Colonial Revival and traditional homes, and they're the natural partner for a pediment or crosshead.
- Isabella (3 1/4 in): a classic beaded casing, with a centred half-round bead between two flat bands.
- Davenport (4 1/2 in): a recessed flat panel framed by a cove and bead, for a more tailored look.
- Fairbank (5 3/4 in): a deep, stepped profile with a large rounded shoulder.
- Palmerston (6 in): a bold S-curve shoulder over a long flat face.
Craftsman
Craftsman trim is flatter and more architectural, often with a square block across the top that echoes the traditional Craftsman head cap. It suits bungalows, Arts and Crafts homes and transitional designs.
- Vanhill (4 in): a mostly flat face with a slim 1 in depth, for walls where projection is limited.
- Zara (5 in): a strong square top block that reads like a Craftsman head cap.
- Lawrence (6 in): a square block that eases into a clean flat face through a smooth cove.
- Tahoe (7 in): scaled for large openings and bold facades.
Victorian
Victorian profiles pack the most detail into the face: layered beads, fillets and reverse curves. They suit Victorian, Queen Anne and ornate traditional facades, and they hold up best where the doorway is seen up close.
- Wallace (4 1/8 in): layered detail in a compact width.
- Nash (6 in): one of the most detailed profiles in the collection.
- Oakridge (6 in): flowing S-curves from top to bottom.
- Ramona (6 in): a recessed flat panel framed by beads and coves, projecting 2 in.
Modern
Modern trim frames the door through proportion rather than ornament: flat faces, clean edges and a strong, even border. It suits contemporary homes, townhouses, offices and retail frontages.
- Iris (4, 6 or 8 in): a flat rectangular profile with a 1 in depth and the look of cut limestone. The 8 in version is made for large entry doors and commercial storefronts.
- Jackson (6 in): a broad flat face with only a small curved top edge.
- Kamloops (6 in): a deep 1 3/4 in top block that steps down once to a 1 in face, for a strong single shadow line.
When choosing between options, start with the architecture, then the width, then the details. A simple exterior casing in the right width does more for a front door than an elaborate profile at the wrong scale.
Choosing the right width and depth
There's no single correct size when choosing exterior door trim, but a few rules of thumb keep a door surround in proportion:
- Scale to the door and the wall. A standard single entry door on a modest facade looks right with a 3 1/2 to 5 in casing. Double doors, tall doors with transoms, and doors on large two-storey elevations need 6 to 8 in to hold their own.
- Match the windows, or go one step up. Using the same profile on doors and windows ties the elevation together. Many designers make the door trim the same profile but one size wider, or add a crosshead over the door only, so the doorway reads as the focal point.
- Think about viewing distance. Fine beads and small fillets disappear from the street. If the door sits far back from the sidewalk, choose a bolder profile or a wider face.
- Check the depth. Trim projection has to work with the door hardware, storm doors, light fixtures and the depth of the wall finish. Our profiles range from slim options like the Vanhill at 1 in deep to deeper Colonial and Victorian profiles around 2 in or more.
- Plan the head. If you want more weight at the top, the best options are a wider head casing, a crosshead or a pediment rather than simply widening the legs.
When in doubt, compare two widths in person. A free sample kit shows the finish up close, and a quick mock-up taped to the wall settles most proportion questions.
Door trim on stucco, brick and stone
The wall finish changes how exterior door trim is detailed:
- Stucco and EIFS: trim is usually installed on the finished wall or integrated with the stucco system, with sealant and flashing details at the head. Profiles with a sloped top, such as the Bayview and Savona, help shed water away from the opening. Our guide to window trim for stucco homes covers the same principles, and the EIFS and stucco trim specification guide goes deeper for architects and contractors.
- Brick: trim sits against or slightly proud of the brick, and the profile depth needs to clear the brick face so the casing still reads as a frame.
- Stone veneer: the stone usually returns to the trim, so plan the trim width before the stone goes on and keep joints even around the opening.
In every case, the flashing and water management at the head of the door are part of the wall design, not the trim itself. Follow the wall system's details and local code.
Crossheads and pediments
A crosshead or pediment is what takes a doorway from trimmed to grand. On a Colonial or Georgian home, a pediment over the front door is often the single most recognizable detail of the facade. On commercial buildings, a crosshead over each door can repeat a cornice line from the roof.
Door pediments and crossheads are available from us as custom orders. We can make almost any profile, so a pediment, crosshead or door header can be designed to suit the casing, the cornice or an existing historic detail. See our custom profile services, or send us your project with a sketch or photo and the opening size.
Adding pilasters
For the most formal doorways, pilasters on either side of the door frame the opening like a portico. They work especially well with a crosshead or pediment above, and they suit both traditional homes and hotel, restaurant and office entrances. Our exterior pilasters pair with any square capital and base, so you can match the style of the casing. For more on how pilasters frame an entrance, read how pilasters give a front door its presence.
Residential and commercial examples
- Custom homes and renovations: a Colonial casing with a crosshead over the front door, with the same casing around the windows; or Craftsman trim with a square head block on a bungalow porch.
- Townhouses and multi-family: a modern flat profile like the Iris 6 around every entry door, giving a long facade a consistent rhythm.
- Retail and storefronts: a wide Iris 8 or Jackson border around entrance doors and display windows (see our storefront remodel ideas).
- Hotels, restaurants and offices: pilasters with a crosshead or custom pediment at the main entry, with the same casing on secondary doors.
Exterior door trim ideas for an easy update
If the front of a building looks dated, new door trim is one of the simplest exterior updates you can make, with real curb appeal for the money. A few ideas that work on most homes and storefronts:
- Go wider: swap a thin, flat casing for a wider profile in the same style.
- Add a crosshead: a projecting cap over an existing casing gives the doorway a more finished top.
- Use colour: paint the trim to contrast with the siding, stucco or brick so the doorway stands out from the street.
- Frame the whole opening: treat a double door, or a door with sidelights, as one composition with pilasters on either side.
- Repeat the profile: run the same trim around nearby windows so the facade reads as one design.
Whichever options you choose, check the range of widths and materials in person before you order; a free sample kit shows the finish up close.
Planning a bigger update? Look at the whole range of exterior trim at the same time: door trim, window trim, sills and a cornice chosen together give a front elevation that looks designed rather than patched.
Exterior door trim materials compared
Most exterior door trim is made from one of three materials: wood, PVC or composite. Wood is traditional and easy to shape, but it needs regular paint and caulk to keep water out, and it can rot where the casing meets the step. PVC won't rot, but it expands and contracts with temperature, so joints can open along a long head casing or a tall leg.
Our trim has a lightweight EPS core with a cement-based coating, so it's moisture-inert, won't rot or warp, and has near-zero joint expansion. It takes paint like any other exterior trim, and works on stucco, EIFS, brick, stone veneer and siding.
Installation and upkeep
Our door trim is lightweight, so it doesn't need heavy framing or lifting equipment. It's cut and mitered on site like conventional trim, sold by the piece, and adhesive is usually enough to install it; larger pieces may need mechanical fasteners as well. The cement-based finish is moisture-inert and won't rot or warp, and like any exterior finish it can be repainted on a normal schedule. Clean it with mild detergent and water.
Exterior door trim FAQ
What is exterior door trim?
Exterior door trim is the moulding that frames an entry door on the outside of a building. At its simplest it's a casing up both sides and across the top; more elaborate surrounds add a crosshead, a pediment or pilasters.
How wide should exterior door trim be?
For a standard single entry door, 3 1/2 to 5 in casing is typical. Double doors, tall doors and large facades usually look better with 6 to 8 in. Using the window trim profile, or going one size wider at the door, keeps the elevation consistent.
What is the difference between door casing and a door surround?
Casing is the trim around the door frame. A door surround is the whole composition around the entrance, which can include casing, a crosshead or pediment, and pilasters.
What is a door crosshead?
A crosshead is a projecting horizontal cap above the door's head casing, usually made from a small cornice-style moulding. It adds a shadow line and a more traditional, finished look to the top of the door.
Can I get a door pediment or crosshead to match my trim?
Yes. Pediments and crossheads are available as custom orders and can be made to suit your casing, cornice or an existing historic detail. Send us a sketch or photo and the opening size for a quote.
Can the same trim be used on windows and doors?
Yes. All 28 profiles in our exterior door trim collection are window and door trim, so one profile can run around every opening on the facade.
What are some exterior door trim ideas for an older home?
Replace a thin casing with a wider profile in the original style, add a crosshead over the door, paint the trim to contrast with the siding or stucco, and repeat the same exterior trim around nearby windows. Together these create a finished, updated look without replacing the door.
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